What in the Heck is a "Screen and Recoat?"

A screen and recoat is the best-kept secret in the hardwood flooring world. But it shouldn't be, because it can save you money, labor and time over the life of your hardwood floor. Read on and remember, the buffer is your friend.

A screen and recoat
 is not the same
as a refinish

        If you have spent any time talking to your hardwood flooring professional (or reading the hardwood flooring blogs) you’ve heard the phrase “screen and recoat.”  Here at Pete’s we know that people can toss around jargon like that in an attempt to sound knowledgeable, but in this case, the jargon actually means something.  The phrase “screen and recoat*” describes the process of sprucing up an existing coat of polyurethane by topcoating it.  But the inclusion of the word ‘screen’ is vital because in order to get a new coat to adhere to the old one you must lightly sand or ‘screen’ it.  A screen is just a mesh encrusted with abrasive particles.  Because it is a mesh, there are fewer abrasive particles per square inch, making it generally less aggressive than sandpaper (a 120grit sanding screen, for example, will be less aggressive than 120grit sandpaper.) Screens are also used under thick soft pads which further soften the cutting action of the screen. This is desirable because floor screening should only leave enough texture in the floor to allow a new coat of polyurethane to bond; screening should remove only a tiny fraction of the existing finish.

         That was a long-winded explanation that only just hinted at the purpose of a screen and recoat. It is simply part of the regular maintenance of a hardwood floor that has been finished by polyurethane.  Polyurethane is considered a protective sacrificial coat.  Over time, the plastic in the finish is slowly removed by the friction of day-to-day living.  That layer gets thinner and more scratched each year--as it should--because its job is to keep all that damage away from the wood below.  But if you let that protective coat deteriorate for too long, it will eventually expose bare wood to assaults from doggy toenails, coffee spills and baby drool, causing damage that can only be removed by sanding the whole floor. This you do not want.  So, every few years, well before the protective coat has grown too thin, you refresh it with another coat on top. Obviously the crucial word in that sentence is the word “before.”  You have to recoat a floor before you see damage, which is hard for some people because they think they’re leaving money on the table by topcoating what appears to be a perfectly good floor finish.

       But polyurethane on your floors is kind of like sunscreen on your skin: not only do you need to put on a good thick layer before you expose it to the sun; you must re-apply it periodically because it wears off.  Once sunburn begins to appear, it is too late to start applying protection.  Protection is always less costly than the damage that results from not having it.

* This is also known as a "buff and coat" because the screen is often driven across the floor by a buffer.

Scenario 2:

Scenario 3: The floor was pre-finished with a modern, aluminum oxide coating.  These finishes are so hard that mechanical screening doesn’t create enough of a bonding texture!  Aluminum oxide finishes can be recoated, but they have to be etched chemically first.  This is best left to a professional.

So, when should I recoat
my floors?

That depends on how hard you live on your floors because, obviously, hard use shortens the life of a floor finish. We recommend that you start looking for signs of wear about three years after floors were sanded or last recoated, except for kitchens and exterior doorways.  Start looking for wear there after just one year. If you have a visible pattern of scratch under chairs or in walkways, it’s time.

This floor
waited too
long

But this floor is just about ready to be recoated

Why can’t I just sand
the damaged areas?

You can, if the damage is contained along the grain direction of the boards.  But if you try to sand off the wear across or perpendicular to grain of the floor, the repair will be evident and unsightly:

In order to “spot-fix” a floor, you have to contain the sanding and refinishing within a single board or the fixed area bounded by board edges.  Taping off a problem area helps, but it is still challenging to sand accurately inside such an intricate space and right up to the taped edges without scouring into the adjacent  undamaged floor.

What is the procedure for a screen and recoat?
These instructions assume the floor is free of any contaminant that would prevent a bond with a coat of finish.   

Equipment: scraper, vacuum, buffer, pad, screen, t-bar and coater, pad painter, rags, finish, solvent that matches your finish, and a watering can (this makes pouring out your finish easy and drip-free).  

Step 1: Inspect the floor for anything that won’t screen out or could damage the screen such as staples, nails, loose boards.  Scrape down drywall compound or paint splatter.

 Step 2: Vacuum floor and damp mop with a mixture of one cup vinegar to one gallon water. Make sure you wring your mop out thoroughly – there should never be standing water or puddles. Let the floor dry thoroughly.

Step 3: Use your favorite method to lightly abrade the top layer of finish. Sand around the perimeter of the room by hand with a 120 grit screen.  For the
middle of the floor you can use a pole sander with a 120 grit screen, or a
floor buffer with a pad and a 150 grit screen.  If you have more that 200 sqft
to screen, we recommend using a buffer.  The screened floor should appear opaque and unevenly dull, like this: 

Step 4: Vacuum the floor thoroughly and then tack with a clean rag lightly
dampened with the appropriate
solvent (water for waterborne finishes,
paint thinner for solvent-based finish).

Step 5: Apply your finish according to manufacturer’s instructions.  Our preferred method is to use an 18" t-bar for the larger open areas while cutting in edges and details with a pad painter.

Step 6: Allow the finish to dry at least 24 hours before allowing foot traffic or replacing furniture. Contrary to popular belief, no further buffing is necessary after the finish dries; polyurethane dries to a pre-determined level of shine (the can you purchased will tell you whether it's satin or semi-gloss) and its luster will be dulled by any further buffing or polishing.